| Cleaning Cages And Accessories |
| Bunny Trail Farm |
Cleaning your rabbit cage is really not as big of a deal as you
might think, especially if you use a litter pan and/or a cage with
a pull-out tray underneath for catching droppings.
If you have a cage that has slide-out trays, just pull out the tray,
dump the old bedding or newspaper into a trash bag, hose the
then spread some fresh bedding or newspaper into the tray. If
you don't have a pull-out tray you will have to keep the cage
clean and not allow the rabbit's feet to stand in urine. A rabbit
does not have a problem being on the wire. Hutch burn or
sores on the feet is caused by urine burn due to it's acidity.
Also spray and scrub the cage with the same vinegar or use a
scrub brush to remove the hair or stuck on droppings. You can
also use Lysol solution in the brown bottle mixed with water to
cleanse and disinfect. The whole process takes less than 15
minutes and it only needs to be done about once or twice a
week. You may want to clean the cage more often if the cage is
located in the house. Adding a litter box to the corner or having
the rabbit litter trained will make cleaning easy. See the litter
box training page for more information on the subject.
If you have a galvanized wire cage it can be cleaned by burning
the wire with a blow torch. The wire cages I am referring to are
silver and won't melt under the heat. Test a little corner of the
cage you have to see if you can use this method of cleaning.
White wire cages should not be burned. I only clean with a blow
torch about twice a year, usually during the shedding season to
remove all the fur. Be very careful and don't attempt to use a
blow torch unless you know how to use it properly and wear
protective gear.
A wooden cage should be bleached with water and about a 1/4
c of bleach. Let dry thoroughly. All cage accessories need to
be cleaned and bleached regularly as well. You can even put
the crocks in the dish washer if you are using them.
might think, especially if you use a litter pan and/or a cage with
a pull-out tray underneath for catching droppings.
If you have a cage that has slide-out trays, just pull out the tray,
dump the old bedding or newspaper into a trash bag, hose the
then spread some fresh bedding or newspaper into the tray. If
you don't have a pull-out tray you will have to keep the cage
clean and not allow the rabbit's feet to stand in urine. A rabbit
does not have a problem being on the wire. Hutch burn or
sores on the feet is caused by urine burn due to it's acidity.
Also spray and scrub the cage with the same vinegar or use a
scrub brush to remove the hair or stuck on droppings. You can
also use Lysol solution in the brown bottle mixed with water to
cleanse and disinfect. The whole process takes less than 15
minutes and it only needs to be done about once or twice a
week. You may want to clean the cage more often if the cage is
located in the house. Adding a litter box to the corner or having
the rabbit litter trained will make cleaning easy. See the litter
box training page for more information on the subject.
If you have a galvanized wire cage it can be cleaned by burning
the wire with a blow torch. The wire cages I am referring to are
silver and won't melt under the heat. Test a little corner of the
cage you have to see if you can use this method of cleaning.
White wire cages should not be burned. I only clean with a blow
torch about twice a year, usually during the shedding season to
remove all the fur. Be very careful and don't attempt to use a
blow torch unless you know how to use it properly and wear
protective gear.
A wooden cage should be bleached with water and about a 1/4
c of bleach. Let dry thoroughly. All cage accessories need to
be cleaned and bleached regularly as well. You can even put
the crocks in the dish washer if you are using them.
© 2006-2011 Bunny Trail Farm.
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