Bunny Medical-Bunny Trail Farm

Here is a list of common bunny ailments. Most bunny owners never encounter
trouble if they properly care for their pet rabbit.

Medical issues are rarely a problem if you buy a rabbit from a reputable breeder.
Also if you rabbit is not exposed to other rabbits that are unhealthy you will not
encounter health issues. There are pages of diseases listed in books and on the
internet, but don't let that scare you. As rabbits grow older they will probably have
natural health issues associated with age. Rabbits are now living up to 12 years
thanks to advances in feed production. Using the proper feed and hay will help
your bunny to live a long and healthy life. For information of what kinds of feed
and hay are recommended see my care page.

Spaying & Neutering:

There are many benefits to spaying or neutering your rabbit. First and foremost, a
fixed rabbit can live a longer, healthier life as the risk of cancer and urinary tract
infections are greatly reduced. Second, a rabbit that is spayed/neutered may
become calmer and easier to manage. Their destructive habits subside. Altered
rabbits are also easier to litter train and have less of an urge to spray. Spayed and
neutered house bunnies are easier to bond because of their calmer demeanor.
And of course, an altered couple will not end up with a litter of baby buns. While
baby bunnies are adorable, there is an issue with improper breeding. Breeding
should be left to the person who has the time and the knowledge to breed rabbits
properly.

When Should You Spay or Neuter Your Pet Rabbit?

When male rabbits are between 3 and 5 months old, they are old enough to be
neutered. Female rabbits are generally old enough to be spayed between 4 and 6
months; this is when they first reach sexual maturity. When rabbits have reached
middle age (5-6 years old) they can be considered too old to be altered. Rabbits
that are too young or too old are at higher risk for complications from surgery.

What to Expect from the Spay/Neuter Surgery:

Spaying is the procedure performed on female rabbits to remove the reproductive
organs. The procedure takes place through the abdomen. Blood vessels that lead
to the reproductive tract are tied and the reproductive tract is removed. The rabbit
then receives several sets of sutures to close her back up.

Neutering is performed on male rabbits to remove the testes. The veterinarian will
make an incision in the scrotum and remove the testicles through it. Up to two
months after the surgery a male rabbit can still have semen stored in his body. For
this reason a recently altered male should be kept away from unaltered female
rabbits during this time period. In order to provide a safe spay/neuter experience
for your rabbit you need to find an experienced veterinarian. When looking for a
veterinarian, be sure to ask if he/she has had experience working with rabbits. Ask
the vet how many BUNNY spays/neuters he/she does per week. Ask how often they
lose a bunny. Most vets have a 99% success rate OR BETTER. Talk to your
qualified vet about what to do to prepare your rabbit for surgery and how to provide
care post-surgery. Also ask your veterinarian to explain the procedure thoroughly
as it may ease your own anxieties to know what will happen. Be sure to monitor
your rabbit after the procedure for changes in behavior, failure to eat, pulling at
stitches or signs of infection.

Steps To Spaying/Neutering Your Pet Rabbit:

Step 1
Ask if the vet does pre-op blood work to screen for any potential problems that
could affect a successful surgery. Ask if the vet usually keeps patients over night
and whether there will be someone to stay with your baby. Ask if you should fast
your bunny- this is a question that will tell you exactly how rabbit-savvy the vet is.
You NEVER fast a bunny prior to surgery. If the vet says you must fast him/her,
hang up and try a different vet. Bunnies' GI tracks prevent them from vomiting and
aspirating (the reason why people and many animals must fast before surgery). A
bunny must continue to eat right up until surgery to prevent GI Stasis.

Step 2
Prepare a cage. Sure vets have their sterile cages, and it can be safer to travel
with buns in a small carrier, but there's really no place like home. If you have a
small cage that your bun sleeps in at night, line it with newspaper (a lot of litters are
light and tend to stick to the bunny's fur- this can cause problems with the wound).
You can hang a favorite toy from the top and set up a litter box in the corner (it's
better if the bunny doesn't have to hop up to get into the litter box). Don't forget the
food dish and water bottle. Make sure both are fully stocked before leaving for the
vet. This will also be your bunny's recovery spot after the surgery when he/she
returns home. It's good to get your bunny acclimated to and comfortable with this
environment prior to the surgery.

Step 3
Buy an inexpensive baby blanket. Dollar Tree sells cheap ($1.00) blankets that are
made of a soft felt. Sleep with the blanket for a few nights before the surgery. Bring
the blanket with you to the vet so that your bunny has something to cuddle up to
with your scent. Bunnies really don't bleed or ooze a lot after the surgery, so the
blanket can be washed and reused.

Step 4
The night before the surgery, gather a bag of your bun's favorite veggies. Make
sure to wash them well and put them in a ziplock bag with your bunny's name. It's
also a good idea to list her favorites in order so the vet techs know what is most
likely to grab your bunny's attention. Also consider including a banana or treat.

Step 5
Before you leave your vet's office, ask how long the surgery will take (usually, from
the time the bunny goes down until the time they wake up is about an hour- though
this does vary). Ask what time they will try to do the surgery and ask if you can visit
after the surgery (if the bunny is going to stay the night).

Step 6
If the bunny stays the night and you are allowed to visit- GO VISIT. Your baby may
still be groggy, but your voice and presence will be noted. Feed them a favorite
treat- he/she may be more willing to take food from you than from a vet tech who
has poked or scared her.

Step 7
Regardless of when you bring your bunny home, make sure he/she is eating,
drinking, pooping, and urinating. Tempt her with any of her favorite treats, don't dry
veggies after washing them (this will get extra water into your baby), and keep a
close eye on him/her.

Step 8
Don't hesitate to call your vet if there are any concerns. Some vets will give
Metacam (a bunny pain reliever). Signs of pain include squinty eyes, hunching over

Worming:
We maintain a worming schedule to remove external and internal parasites.
Worming is not necessary if your rabbit is kept indoors and does not come in
contact with other rabbits. We use a pea-sized amount of Ivermectin or Safeguard
paste for horses. We follow the next day with a pro-biotic. We worm our rabbits
because they may have picked up worms from the show table or other rabbits when
we purchase them from breeders. Never worm a rabbit under 6 months of age.

Fleas, Ticks, Mites:
First of all your rabbit will not have problems with parasites if it is not kept on the
ground outdoors for long periods of time or is exposed to another infected animal
or environment. If your rabbit is scratching itself frequently, your bunny may have
parasites. With fleas, there will be tiny brown droppings in his fur called flea dirt. .
You can see the little insects around your rabbit's ears and belly. You may need to
use a rabbit-safe topical solution, which includes Advantage®, Revolution®
(Stronghold® in Europe), or Program®. Consult your rabbit vet for proper dosage
and application instructions. The solution should be applied to the back of the
rabbit's neck where he/she cannot lick it off. If you have more than one rabbit, they
should be separated so they can't lick the medication off each other's backs;
ingestion can cause stomach issues. Keep them separated a few days. Never use
Frontline® or Sentinel® as flea treatments in rabbits. These medications cause
adverse reactions in rabbits, including death in some cases.

Eye Infections:
Conjunctivitis can be seen in rabbits like humans. Clean of the discharge using a
warm damp cloth. Follow with proper antibiotic ointment you obtain from your
Veterinarian. You can also purchase Terramycin eye ointment from a feed supply
store such as Tractor and Supply. Most rabbits never have eye problems.
Sometimes a problem develops from the dust of pine shavings which cause
irritation.

Problems Relating To Improper Diet:
An incorrect diet can be the underlying cause to many health problems. Rabbits
are strict herbivores that eat a variety of plants in the wild. Although they prefer
grass and leaves, they can digest more fibrous foods and are able to survive on
sparse vegetation. They do NOT need a high calorie diet, as their digestive system
has evolved to use bacterial fermentation to break down fibre and form nutrients.

Dental Problems:
Rabbits teeth are continually growing and being worn down to cut and grind food
before it enters the stomach. Dental problems are possibly the most common
reason why vets see rabbits. There is universal agreement amongst experts that
mixed muesli-type diets are at least partly responsible for these teeth problems.
Although these types of rabbit food are cheap, tasty and convenient, they are
totally unsuitable for rabbits. They are high in calories and low in fiber, and even if
the manufacturer claims to have a balanced mixture of ingredients, many rabbits
will cherry pick certain bits from the bowl. This means that certain tasty components
such as peas or maize, which are not beneficial to a rabbit's diet, are selectively
eaten while less palatable ingredients are ignored. The continual growth of the
rabbits teeth is reliant on proper nutrition. So when a rabbit's diet is deficient, this
disrupts the tooth structure and can lead to tooth abscesses. Rabbits with poor
teeth cannot groom themselves properly. Poor teeth also make the rabbit unable to
eat hay, so the proportion of fiber in the diet decreases and causes digestive
problems, as discussed earlier. By and large, if a rabbit is eating large amounts of
hay it is an indicator that it has healthy teeth.

Rabbit Medical
Information

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